Dr. Lyman B. Sperry: Early Trail Builder

In the heart of Glacier National Park is the 216-acre Sperry Glacier. It's named after Dr. Lyman B. Sperry of Oberlin College, who scouted for "scenic attractions" on behalf of the Great Northern Railway in an effort to expand tourism opportunities in the region. In June of 1895, while exploring the basin above Lake McDonald, Sperry saw and heard multiple avalanches roaring down the mountains that surround what is now known as Avalanche Lake, and agreed with those in his party, "that Avalanche Basin would be a most appropriate name for the place."

On a return trip later that same summer Sperry would discover the glacier that now bears his name. Here's a photo of the Sperry Party on Sperry Glacier:

Several years later the college professor would oversee construction of a trail that led from the head of Lake McDonald to Sperry Glacier. Dr. Sperry's trail, constructed in 1902 and 1903 with the help of 15 students from the University of Minnesota, was likely the first organized trail-building effort in the park. Sperry's motivation for building the trail came from the thought that by providing access to the most beautiful parts of Glacier's backcountry, more people would have the opportunity to see the wonders of the area, and thus increase the probability of preserving it as a national park.

Now known as the Gunsight Pass Trail, Dr. Sperry's original trail still leads to the glacier that bears his name, as well as the historic Sperry Chalet. At an elevation of more than 6550 feet, Sperry Chalet sits high atop a rock ledge that offers visitors commanding views of majestic mountain peaks, waterfalls and the Lake McDonald valley. Now listed as an Historic Landmark, the Sperry Chalet dining chalet was built by the Great Northern Railway in 1913, while the original dormitory was completed during the following year. For those visiting Sperry on a day hike you may want to note that the dining room is open to the public from 11:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. each day.

In my history of hiking, Ramble On, I discuss trail development in Glacier in far more detail, including the crucial role the Great Northern Railway played during the early years of the park.

Here's a hiking party on Sperry Glacier in the 1920s:

Here's a photo from the Milwaukee Public Museum titled, "Crevass in Sperry Glacier into which a lady fell 45 feet but was not serious hurt":

Jeff
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
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Biologists to begin 2024 grizzly and black bear captures for research purposes in Yellowstone National Park

As part of ongoing grizzly bear and black bear research and management efforts and as required under the Endangered Species Act to monitor the population in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the U.S. Geological Survey, in conjunction with the National Park Service, is working to inform the public that scientific capture operations are once again about to begin within Yellowstone National Park.

Biologists with the Interagency Grizzly Bear Study Team (IGBST) and Yellowstone National Park will begin field captures on May 1 and continue through Oct. 31. None of the trap sites in the park will be located near established hiking trails or backcountry campsites, and all trap sites will have posted warnings for the closure perimeter. Potential access points will also be posted with bright warning signs for the closure area. It is critical that the public heed these signs. Backcountry users who come upon any of these posted areas need to stay out of the area.

Monitoring of grizzly bear distribution and other activities are vital to ongoing recovery of grizzly bears in the Yellowstone Ecosystem. In order to attract bears, biologists use natural food sources such as fresh road-killed deer and elk. Potential capture sites are baited with these natural foods and if indications are that grizzly bears are in the area, culvert traps or foot snares will be used to capture the bears. Once captured, bears are handled in accordance with strict safety and animal care protocols developed by the IGBST.

Whenever bear capture activities are being conducted for scientific purposes, the area around the site will be posted with bright warning signs to inform the public of the activities occurring. These signs are posted along the major access points to the capture site. It is important that the public heed these signs and do not venture into an area that has been posted.

For more information regarding bear capture efforts, call the IGBST hotline at 406-994-6675. Information about grizzly bear research and monitoring is available from the IGBST website.



Jeff
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
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The Legacy of Abner Sprague

"We came here for small ranch operations, but guests and visitors became so numerous, at first wanting eggs, milk, and other provisions, then wanting lodging, and finally demanding full accommodations, that we had to go into the hotel business or go bankrupt from keeping free company!"

    - Abner Sprague

In 1874, just 14 years after Joel Estes settled in what is now Estes Park, Abner Sprague began building a humble homestead in Moraine Park. Almost immediately he began hosting travelers at his cabin, thus establishing the first tourism business within the boundaries of the future national park. The homestead would eventually become a lodge that was used for hunting, fishing, dude ranching, and even golf at one point. By the turn of the century Sprague’s lodge and guest cabins could accommodate up to 100 guests per night. In 1900 (or 1904) the property was sold to James Stead, which remained in business as the Stead’s Ranch and Hotel until 1962.

After selling the lodge the Sprague's moved to Loveland. However, in 1910, seeking "to prevent my homesickness for Estes Park and the mountains from becoming chronic", Abner Sprague and his wife built another guest lodge in the Glacier Basin area. This was located in the current parking area for Sprague Lake. In 1932, the National Park Service purchased the property, but gave the Sprague's a twenty-year operating lease before razing the buildings in 1957.

Abner Sprague would go down in Rocky Mountain National Park history once more when he became the first visitor to pay an entrance fee in 1939.

Today, 12,713-foot Sprague Mountain, Sprague Lake, Sprague Glacier, and Sprague Pass all bear his name. Additionally, Alberta Falls is named for Alberta Sprague, Abner's wife of 55 years.



Jeff
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Yellowstone National Park 2024 road improvement projects

There will be two major road improvement projects in Yellowstone National Park in 2024. The Lewis River Bridge and Yellowstone River Bridge projects will cause traffic delays. It’s important that visitors plan accordingly for these delays located along the park’s southern and northern road corridors.

1. Lewis River Bridge

Location: Nearly 10 miles north of the South Entrance on the South Entrance Road

Access: In 2024, expect up to 20-minute delays while roads are open to wheeled vehicles (May-Oct. 31). Nearby pullouts and the trail to Lewis River Falls will be closed during construction.

Improvements: This project began in 2022 and will conclude fall 2024. It includes the removal and replacement of the Lewis River Bridge. The existing bridge will be removed, and a new bridge will be constructed immediately downstream. The project includes additional parking and viewing opportunities.

2. Yellowstone River Bridge

Location: Near Tower Junction along the Northeast Entrance Road

Access: In 2024, expect up to 30-minute delays. The Northeast Entrance Road is open year-round to wheeled vehicles. Hiking trails in the area may temporarily close during the duration of the project. Visit the Backcountry Situation Report for details.

Improvements: This project began in 2023 and will conclude fall 2026. It includes the replacement of the structurally deficient Yellowstone River Bridge built in 1961. A new 1,285-foot-long, 175-foot-high steel girder bridge upstream will replace the existing 604-foot-long bridge to preserve year-round access to/from the Northeast Entrance and communities of Silver Gate and Cooke City, Montana. New pullouts, paved parking areas, and dedicated route across the new bridge will increase access to trails, fishing and viewpoints. The Yellowstone River Picnic Area will be enlarged to accommodate increased visitor use.

Temporary delays or closures can happen at any time on park roads. Stay informed.

* Visit Yellowstone’s website at Park Roads.

* Call 307-344-2117 for recorded information.

* Receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777 (an automatic text reply will confirm receipt and provide instructions).



Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

American Hiking Society to Celebrate the 32nd Annual National Trails Day on June 1, 2024

Millions of people from across the country will hit the trail on Saturday, June 1, 2024, celebrating American Hiking Society’s 32nd annual National Trails Day®.

This year is about celebrating the trails, giving back, and finding community in the outdoors. Hikers, cyclists, horseback riders, paddlers, trail clubs, federal and local agencies, land trusts, and businesses will partner at events across the country to forge a more inclusive trail community and advocate for, maintain, and clean up trails and public lands, collectively working together to build a world where everyone feels welcome and has access to enjoy the great outdoors.

American Hiking and the nationwide trails community invite people of all ages and abilities to connect with their local community around their love of being outside. Anyone can join the national movement by giving back to the trails and making sure everyone can enjoy the outdoors with three simple actions:

* Join: Find a local event;

* Pledge: Commit to leaving the trail and the outdoor community better than you found them. American Hiking provides simple ways to make a positive impact;

* Connect: Share how you’ll leave the trail and the outdoor community better than you found them by tagging #NationalTrailsDay and @AmericanHiking on social media.

American Hiking Society invites individuals and organizations alike to register an event for National Trails Day® for free on the searchable directory of events on NationalTrailsDay.org. Tens of thousands of people will use the event database to find events in their local community. Event registration will continue until National Trails Day®, but American Hiking encourages events to be registered by early May so interested participants can begin planning for National Trails Day®.

Last year, over 74,000 individuals participated in events at nearly 800 sites nationwide, and more than 7,000 trail volunteers built and maintained 558 miles of trails in celebration of National Trails Day® in 2023.



Jeff
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TetonHikingTrails.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

The Father of Glacier National Park

George Bird Grinnell is widely regarded as a towering figure in the American conservation movement. Not only is he recognized as "The Father of Glacier National Park", but he's also recognized as "The Father of American Conservation".

Born in 1849, Grinnell was an explorer, historian, anthropologist, naturalist, writer and founder of the Audubon Society. As editor of Forest and Stream he crusaded for more than a decade for more stringent protection of Yellowstone’s wildlife. He campaigned tirelessly to defend the fledgling park from commercialization, and specifically focused on protecting bison from hunters, as Yellowstone was its last refuge. In 1894 he fully exploited a famous poaching incident that occurred within the park boundaries. Less than two months after the incident, the Lacey Act of 1894 was passed by Congress, which was a direct result of Grinnell's persistent reporting. The act protected wildlife in Yellowstone, and made violations punishable.

Grinnell made his first visit to Glacier in 1885. He was so inspired by the scenery that he spent the next two decades working to establish it as a national park. In 1896 he was one of three commissioners to sign the treaty with the Blackfeet Indians that transferred ownership of the land that would become Glacier National Park.

During his first visit to the future park Grinnell would discover the glacier that now bears his name. Today, Mount Grinnell, Grinnell Lake, Grinnell Falls and Grinnell Glacier are all named in honor of him. During his final visit to the eponymous glacier in 1926, Grinnell noted in his diary that, "the glacier is melting very fast and the amount of water coming from it is great. All these glaciers are receding rapidly and after a time will disappear."

Grinnell (second from right) and a hiking party on Grinnell Glacier in 1926:

Grinnell and his wife, Elizabeth, circa 1925:

Jeff
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
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Select Yellowstone National Park roads open to public April 19

Beginning at 8 a.m. Friday, April 19, 2024, select roads in Yellowstone National Park will open to the public, weather permitting. Roads begin to open annually this time of year for the summer season. On Saturday, April 20, entrance fees will be waived in celebration of National Park Week.

Roads opening April 19:

* West Entrance (West Yellowstone, Montana) to Old Faithful (via Madison Junction)

* Mammoth Hot Springs to Old Faithful (via Norris Junction and Madison Junction)

* Norris Junction to Canyon Village

Additional park roads will open throughout May, weather permitting.

The only roads open year-round are between the North Entrance in Gardiner, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance in Cooke City/Silver Gate, Montana (via Mammoth Hot Springs, Tower Junction and Lamar Valley).



Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

The Suspicious Death of Robert Ray Hamilton

Did you know that Signal Mountain in Grand Teton National Park received its name as a result of a highly suspicious death?

In the spring of 1890, John Dudley Sargent, along with his partner, Robert Ray Hamilton, began construction on Merymere Lodge, a 10-room cabin overlooking Jackson Lake north of Colter Bay. In August of that year, Robert, who happened to be the great-grandson of Alexander Hamilton, mysteriously went missing while hunting for antelope. Search parties were immediately organized with instructions to light a "signal" fire atop an isolated mountain east of Jackson Lake once he was found. A week later searchers found his body floating in the Snake River. As directed, a fire was lit, and the name "Signal Mountain" stuck for the low-lying mountain.

Speculation swirled for years as to whether Hamilton was murdered by his business partner, who would also be suspected of murdering his wife several years later. The circumstances surrounding both cases were strange and entangled. In the end, neither accusation was ever proved, or completely solved.

Without going into the long details of what transpired before and after Hamilton's death, as well as the somewhat confusing and contradictory details of his death, it's assumed that he drowned while trying to ford the Snake River at a particularly dangerous location. The prevailing rumor around Jackson Hole was that Sargent gave Hamilton directions to cross at this spot, knowing full well that this was a highly treacherous ford. Moreover, the supposition was that Sargent wanted Hamilton dead so that he could gain sole possession of the lodge.

Seven years later, as mentioned, Sargent's first wife also died under highly suspicious circumstances. Again, the settlers in Jackson Hole immediately suspected Sargent of murder. In 1913, Sargent himself was found dead in his cabin by passing travelers who could smell his decomposing body from the road. He was found sitting in a rocking chair, with a string tied from his big toe to the trigger of his rifle.

Here's John Dudley Sargent in his cabin, presumably in the chair that he died in:

Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Celebrate National Park Week from April 20 through 28

During National Park Week, experience the beauty of natural surroundings, explore the country’s rich heritage, and engage your senses in all things national parks. The celebration begins with an entrance fee-free day on April 20 and continues through April 28. Pick a place and activity, keep a safe distance from any wild animals, and enjoy a full week of special events.

“With countless options of things to do and see, there really is something for everyone in our country’s national parks,” said National Park Service Director Chuck Sams. “During National Park Week, and throughout the year, I encourage people to discover and enjoy the natural, cultural, historical, and recreational opportunities available in national parks and through National Park Service community programs.”

A trip planning guide, safety tips, and detailed information about each national park are available on NPS.gov and the official NPS app. An online calendar of activities provides information about National Park Week happenings. In addition, each day will feature an aspect of the National Park Service (NPS) and related people, partners, places and stories. Don’t forget to join the conversation on social media using the hashtag #NationalParkWeek.  

Saturday, April 20: Discovery – Did you know that there are 429 national parks, with at least one in every state, including national seashores, historical sites, and recreation areas?

Sunday, April 21: Volunteers – Did you know that 123,000 people volunteered their time and talent with the NPS last year?

Monday, April 22: Earth Day – Did you know that the NPS has a Green Parks Plan that incorporates sustainability in national parks and that you can also practice conservation at home?

Tuesday, April 23: Innovation – Did you know that many national parks honor American ingenuity and that the NPS uses innovative measures to make improvements in park infrastructure?

Wednesday, April 24: Workforce Wednesday – Did you know that thousands of employees, interns, fellows, volunteers, contractors, and partners work to preserve parks and provide visitors with enjoyable experiences?  

Thursday, April 25: Youth Engagement – Did you know that the next generation of stewards are already making a difference in national parks?

Friday, April 26: Community Connections – Did you know that the NPS administers almost 100 community-based programs that support recreation, conservation, and preservation efforts in almost every county in America?

Saturday, April 27: Junior Ranger Day – Did you know that kids (and kids at heart) can become a Junior Ranger through in-person or online activities?

Sunday, April 28: Arts in Parks – Did you know that there is a long and ongoing history of parks providing artistic inspiration?

For more information about National Park Week, please visit NPS.gov/npweek.



Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Cut Bank Chalets

The Cut Bank Chalets on the east side of Glacier National Park were one of nine backcountry chalet complexes built by the Great Northern Railway during the second decade of the 20th Century. Located near the present day Cut Bank Trailhead, the railway constructed four structures between 1911 and 1912, including an 18x80 foot dining hall/kitchen, two single room cabins, and a two-story six-room cabin with a lounge area. The chalets officially opened in 1913, and were able to accommodate up to 42 guests during its heyday. As a result of its location near the North Fork Cut Bank Creek, the rustic lodge became a very popular destination for fishermen.

In 1917 the NPS constructed a ranger station near the chalet. This is the only building from that era that still remains in the Cut Bank valley. Due to declining business the lodge closed in 1933. By 1949 the structures were regarded as "beyond repair" and an "eyesore," and were dismantled by the park.

The historic photo below was taken by T.J. Hileman around 1925. Above the main building is Bad Marriage Mountain:

Here's a close-up photo of the main building, taken by George A. Grant in 1932:

Though the chalets are long gone, the somewhat remote Cut Bank valley still offers hikers outstanding hiking opportunities, including Medicine Grizzly Lake and Triple Divide Pass.



Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

The Moraine Park Loop

The Moraine Park Loop is a great introductory hike for those that are new to Rocky Mountain National Park, looking for an easy hike, or looking for something at the lower elevations while acclimating to the altitude. The loop offers spectacular views of Snowdrift Peak and Stones Peak towering above the valley floor. You'll also stand a great chance of seeing elk along this route.

Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
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Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Glacier National Park 2024 Construction Updates

Glacier National Park has announced plans for construction areas during the 2024 spring and summer season. Visitors are encouraged to plan and prepare for traffic delays.

Park Headquarters
In August a rehabilitation project of the park headquarters complex roads and parking lot will be taking place into the fall. Be aware of construction vehicles, workers and possible wait times if entering headquarters.

Going-to-the-Sun Road Rehabilitation

The west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road will undergo the last phase of construction work that began in May 2023. The last 2.8 miles of construction will focus on paving Going-to-the-Sun Road, starting west of Sprague Creek Campground up to North Lake McDonald Road. Construction will resume in April 2024, and is expected to be completed in late May to early June 2024, weather permitting. Construction will cause delays along Going-to-the-Sun Road. Visitors should anticipate up to a 30-minute wait.

Fiber Optic Installation at West Glacier, East Glacier, St. Mary, and Many Glacier
Fiber optic lines will be installed in West Glacier, East Glacier, St. Mary, and Many Glacier to improve internet access for NPS administrative purposes. Traffic delays will be minimal, but visitors are asked to use caution and watch for construction workers and equipment on or near the road this summer.

At West Glacier, fiber optic line will be installed across the Middle Fork bridge and on the east side up to Grinnell Drive in park headquarters. Traffic may be restricted to a single lane on Going-to-the-Sun Road up to Grinnell Drive. Work in West Glacier will be completed within 2-3 weeks.

In East Glacier, fiber optic cable will be installed across US Highway 2 and along MT-49. Lane reductions or single lane closures are possible along MT-49 up to the East Glacier Ranger Station. Work will be completed within 1-2 weeks.

Fiber optic work will take place close to the St. Mary Entrance on the west side of US-89 near restaurants and hotels. Minimal traffic impacts are expected, but there will be possible pedestrian and parking impacts. Work in St. Mary will be completed within 1-2 weeks.

Fiber optic work in Many Glacier includes an extension of fiber optic internet service from Babb to the Many Glacier Ranger Station. The line will be installed on the north side of the road. The work will impact areas near the entrance sign, entrance station, Apikuni Falls Trailhead, pull-offs along the Many Glacier Road, the Many Glacier Hotel T-intersection, and the Swiftcurrent area of the road. There may be lane reductions or single lane traffic on Many Glacier Road. Work will be completed within 4-6 weeks.

Swiftcurrent and Many Glacier
Starting September 16, 2024, the road past Many Glacier Hotel at the T-intersection will be closed due to construction on the Swiftcurrent Water Distribution System and road rehabilitation. Construction will begin after Swiftcurrent Motor Inn, Many Glacier Hotel and Many Glacier Campground are closed for the 2024 season. Trail access will still be allowed for trails such as Ptarmigan Tunnel (and points beyond), Iceberg Lake, and Swiftcurrent Pass. However, visitors will need to park in the Many Glacier Hotel parking lot, walk to the closure point and use the horse trail to bypass construction. Signs will indicate the detour. Cars will not be able to pass through the construction zone. For best access to Grinnell Glacier, Grinnell Lake and Lake Josephine, start from the South Shore Trailhead at the south end of Many Glacier Hotel. Primitive camping at Many Glacier Campground will not be available in Fall 2024 due to construction. Many Glacier Campground’s regular summer season is from early June to mid-September.

The Many Glacier Road from the park boundary to the entrance station will undergo dust mitigation treatment. The treatment work will begin in late June, weather permitting. This gravel stretch of road is slated for construction and paving in 2027.

Upper McDonald Creek Bridge
Construction on the Upper McDonald Creek Bridge that started in 2023 will continue in 2024 including demolition of the existing bridge. The bridge provides access to the northwest shore of Lake McDonald including private homes, the Lake McDonald Ranger Station, and trailheads (such as the Upper McDonald Creek Trail). When completed, the new bridge will be approximately 30 feet upstream of the existing bridge, requiring a realignment of the road approaches.

Similar to 2023, North Lake McDonald Road will be closed for the entire 2024 season at the Going-to-the-Sun Road intersection. There will be no public access, including vehicles, hiking, or biking and no parking beyond or in the vicinity of the intersection. Visitors intending on hiking the Johns Lake Loop Trail will not be able to complete the loop and will need to turn around where trail closure signs are posted. Bridge construction is expected to conclude in August 2024.

Inside North Fork Road
Grading will be ongoing throughout the summer on the road to Bowman and Kintla lakes. Operations will not disrupt travel to these destinations. Major road work between Camas and Anaconda creek could impact hiker and biker travel.

Polebridge
Construction on Glacier Drive in Polebridge that began in 2023 will continue in 2024. Visitors to the Polebridge area should expect 30-minute delays before arriving at and departing from the park entrance. Visitors are encouraged not to drive all the way to the North Fork entrance unless they have a vehicle reservation to decrease traffic in the work zone. Information regarding the ongoing construction work will be posted at the Polebridge Mercantile. Updates for the construction project can be found on Montana Department of Transportation's website.



Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

The Old Forest Inn

Located near The Pool in Rocky Mountain National Park is the former site of the Forest Inn. Established in 1917, the Forest Inn featured a lodge, dining room, lounge, and several cabins and tents throughout its lifespan. According to a 1934 park brochure, the Forest Inn "on Fern Lake Trail, offers board and lodging (tents) at prices from $3 to $4 a day and $15 to $20 a week. If you occupy a cabin, the charge is from $4 to $5 a day, and $20 to $25 a week. Single meals are $1 each. F. D. Tecker operates Forest Inn."

The resort closed its doors in 1951, was sold to the National Park Service during the following year, and was finally razed in 1959.

Like the old Fern Lake Lodge, the resort was only accessible by trail. Today, the Old Forest Inn backcountry campsite occupies the former resort site. The two campsites are located roughly 200 yards above The Pool.

Jeff
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park